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More Hitch Help |
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Tag-along (a.k.a. "Bumper-pull") Trailer Hitch Systems:
One of the most frequent questions we get is about hitch systems for tag-along trailers. There is so much misinformation, rumor, and confusion surrounding "anti-sway bars", "equalizer bars", "weight distribution" and "weight carrying" that we will dedicate a whole page to the topic. Although this is long - hopefully it will clear the air about this potentially confusing subject.
Horse-Cents recommends our clients to
We want to make 200% certain that your tow vehicle is properly equipped with the correct hardware and electrical components (including the brake controller) for safe hauling of your trailer and horses.
Your "towing rig":
Try to picture that you have 3 main critical components to your "towing rig":
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your tow vehicle (with its own ratings & capacities, suspension, etc.)
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the towing hitch assembly (this includes the hitch receiver, draw-bar, tow ball, Weight Distribution System - if used, etc.), and -
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the trailer itself (its suspension, curb weight, coupler, GTW, tongue weight, etc.).
Each of these 3 components must be compatible and up to the specified task. Remember a chain breaks at its weakest link.
For your tow vehicle, the factory puts on the suspension parts (springs, shocks, stabilizer bars, etc.) that it thinks are best. When you buy a "factory tow package", these parts (and others) are typically upgraded for the extra task & strain of towing.
The trailer manufacturer builds their horse trailer (hopefully) with adequate suspension and coupler for the maximum possible weight your trailer could carry. Many 2-Horse tag-along trailers are rated between 5,000 and 7,000 lbs Gross Trailer Weight.
This leaves the hitch assembly – probably the LEAST understood “link” in the chain.
Hitch Assemblies:
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In the tag-along world, there are two classifications of hitch assemblies used; however they both use the same hitch receiver (that big steel frame assembly that bolts to the frame of your truck). There is Weight Carrying (WC) and Weight Distribution (WD). Most Class-III and all Class-IV and V hitch receivers can serve as either a WC or WD hitch. However - just because you have a WD capable hitch - does not mean you have a WD hitch system! |
Typical hitch receiver |
 Typical hitch rating label |
Check the rating label on your hitch receiver. It will have 4 (8 if also rated in metric kilograms) numbers, two ratings for each WD and WC hitch types. One set of numbers is for the maximum gross (fully loaded) trailer weight, the other (lower) number is for the tongue weight (TW). The WC rating will always be lower than the WD ratings. You can not take advantage of the higher WD capacity unless you have a WD system! |
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WC systems are by far the most common, and likely what you are using now. It simply has a draw-bar (a.k.a. ball-mount) with a tow ball (typically 2” or 2-5/16") mounted to it. The draw-bar has a 2” square stud which slides into the hitch receiver and locks in with a pin (typically 5/8” diameter). With this system, ALL the weight of the trailer is “carried” by the tow ball, pulling weight and tongue weight (pushing straight down on the ball from the weight of the trailer’s tongue). |
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 Typical weight distribution assy. |
WD systems use a more complicated set of hardware to “link” the trailer to the tow vehicle; but still use the same hitch receiver on the truck. The WD system has a pair (some light-duty ones only have one) of “trunnion” bars (lever arms) which are locked into place along the tongue of the trailer. Typically these bars have chains that attach from the cam latch on the trailer tongue to the ends of the bars. These bars actually transfer or distribute a good percentage of the trailer’s weight directly to the hitch receiver (thus to the frame of your tow vehicle). While there is not room here to explain the entire principle, it is like a wheel-barrow. Because of this mechanical advantage, your can tow heavier trailers with the same hitch. |
WD systems have other advantages too. Because of how they distribute the load, your tow vehicle drives / handles better; the front wheels are not “light” because of the load pressing down on the its very tail-end. With shorter wheelbase tow vehicles, especially SUVs, WD systems can make the difference between a safe tow and a disaster waiting to happen! Yet another advantage to a WD system is that by their very nature, they have certain “anti-sway” characteristics. This helps to eliminate the “wagging” effect found in some bumper-pull trailers. However - the WD "trunnion bars" are not real anti-sway bars. Some WD systems come with (or can have added) dedicated “anti-sway” control hardware that really stabilizes your trailer.
Question: So, if WD systems are so good, why doesn’t everyone use only them? Answer: They are much more expensive and a bit more complicated to hook up. Whereas a typical draw-bar and tow ball might cost $25.00, a WD assembly might cost $300~$450, plus labor to have it mounted and adjusted for your trailer. If it takes you 3 minutes to hitch-up your trailer with the classical WC ball mount, it might take 10~15 with a WD assembly.
Even if you use a WC hitch system, you can buy “anti-sway” hardware to hook between your trailer and tow vehicle to help control trailer sway. There are two main types, “friction” and “cam”. The “cam” type is better (and costs more).
Do I need a WD or anti-sway system?
Are you having steering control problems? Do you feel like the front end of your tow vehicle is “light” when towing the loaded trailer, especially when accelerating or braking?
Have someone follow you on the highway when towing your trailer…. Do they notice the trailer "wagging" (swaying), especially when a semi passes you?
With your loaded trailer hooked up to your tow vehicle and parked on a level surface, step back and look at your rig from the side. Is it "sagging" in the middle? In other words, is the trailer tongue and tow ball the lowest part of the rig?
If any of these answers are “yes”, you might greatly benefit from either a WD system and/or an “anti-sway” add-on.
Do you have a short wheelbase tow vehicle? Even with big engines and factory tow packages, many SUVs and smaller trucks are too short for safe towing with a WC hitch system. If so, a WD system is a must.
The rule of thumb we use for WC hitches is:
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For a 2-Horse Dressing Room Tag-along: you want a wheelbase of 120-inches or more. |
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For a 2-Horse Non-DR Tag-along: you want a wheelbase of 114-inches or more. |
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Longer is better! |
Short wheelbase vehicles, especially SUVs, greatly benefit from WD hitch systems.
Don't forget to read the other Trailering Tips dealing with Hitch Facts, Tow Capacity Ratings, and Electrical Hook-ups. Hopefully – this combination of information explains all the details and removes any confusion. If you’d like further help, don’t hesitate to email me directly.