The Good - the Bad and the Ugly:

First - the Bad news:

Horse trailer theft is on the rise all across the country.  While accurate statistics are impossible to collect, from my perspective in the industry, trailer theft is rising at an alarming rate.  I have friends whose trailer was nearly stolen, hear about stolen trailers every week, and yes - even EquiSpirit customer's have had their trailers ripped-off.

Next - the Ugly:

Part of the "problem" is that stolen horse trailers are not treated by law enforcement agencies like motor vehicles.  To deter automotive theft and aid in vehicle recovery, the various state and local law enforcement agencies have a linked database of stolen vehicles.  Auto dealerships are not allowed to accept a car for trade-in or sale without first verifying the title is free, clear, and clean.  All of this is true, even if the value of the stolen car is only $1,000.

Horse trailers are not treated to the same luxuries under the law.  A $15,000 horse trailer can be stolen in one state, driven across the state line (or even to the next city) and sold for $7,000 in quick cash with little paperwork and no easy method for the police to track it down.  Sure it is a felony - but catching the crooks is not easy when the law has such a blind eye.

Finally - some Good news:

In the midst of this bad news, there are some bright spots.

First and foremost, your EquiSpirit trailer should be insured against theft.  Most homeowners policies do not cover "wheeled vehicles", thus your automotive policy is usually the best place to add horse trailer protection.

That portion of your auto insurance coverage is called "Comprehensive" and protects you against things like fire, theft, vandalism, etc.  While you may have a deductible to pay, at least the largest portion of your investment will be recovered.  Be certain that you have added your horse trailer to your automotive policy for both collision and comprehensive protection.  The annual premium will be much lower than a car or motorcycle (typically under $150 per year), and may save you many tears.

While having the insurance pay to replace a stolen trailer is some help - it is much better to deter the theft in the first place.

Securing your trailer:

I believe that most thieves and criminals are opportunists, looking for easy targets to make a quick score.  I also believe that no one can protect everything from everyone.  In other words, while it is impossible to make your trailer "theft proof" - you can make it a more difficult target.  Given the choice between a difficult job and looking for an easy score, 99.9% of the crooks will take the easy way out.  While it may not be possible to completely prevent the crook from stealing your trailer, the idea is to make it as uninviting as practical.  Regardless of whether you have a tag-along or gooseneck trailer, if you can deter the criminal from attaching your trailer to their tow vehicle, you have deterred a theft.

There are several considerations for securing your trailer, some you may have more control over than others.

Coupler locks:

Since I have no control over who reads this page, it would be a disservice to all trailer owners if I described some of the methods criminals use to steal trailers... I don't want to teach the would-be thief any new tricks.  However, I will say that without securing your coupler and the ball socket, you have left the proverbial chicken-coup door wide open for the hungry fox.

The two most important characteristics of a good coupler lock are: 1) to completely enclose the ball socket, and 2) withstand reasonable attempts of tampering / forced removal.  In addition, if the lock is too cumbersome, you will be less likely to use it every time - so it should be user friendly.

I've been examining tag-along coupler locks for some time, testing many different makes and styles.  The two that I've accepted so far are the Guardian G-37 and the Fulton Model UTL100.  While they differ in style and construction, they both seem to secure the trailer's coupler well.  Between the two, I believe the Guardian is a more secure locking device while also helping to prevent alternative towing methods.

On EquiSpirit's tag-along trailers, we recently (starting in late 2002) changed the manufacturer and style of the coupler from an Atwood pressed steel to a Fulton cast steel unit.  The Fulton UTL100 should fit either style, whereas the Guardian G-37 only fits the older Atwood coupler.  If you buy the UTL100, be certain to install it so the drop-skirt (with the Gorilla logo) faces towards the back of the trailer... not towards the front of the coupler!

Latch locks:

Tag-along and gooseneck couplers usually have a provision to lock the latch lever with a pad-lock.  Typically this is a hole through the latch assembly through which you secure a pad-lock with a 1/4" or 5/16" shank.  You can (and should) lock the trailer onto your tow ball whenever towing.

In addition, I also use a pad-lock on the release latch of the coupler, even with the UTL100 or G-37 on my trailer.  Since this is the same padlock I use when the trailer is on the truck, it is easy and a good habit to use it when the trailer is off the truck too. 

Draw-bar locks:

Finally, you should use a locking pin to secure your draw-bar (a.k.a. "ball mount) into your hitch receiver.  I know of several methods criminals exploit to steal trailers off a truck if the draw-bar is not locked into the hitch.  I've also heard of people having their draw-bars and tow balls stolen when the trailer is not hooked up to your truck - so it is a good idea to keep your property secure.  Most hitch manufacturers make or resell locking pins.  Be careful to get the correct size - typically 5/8" for class III and IV 2" square draw-bars.  Here are some typical locking pins, these samples are from Fulton:

Miscellaneous:

I've seen and evaluated several types of "wheel lock" devices for trailers also.  These are similar to the clamp-on "boots" that some police departments use on illegally parked automobiles.  So far, I've not been satisfied with any of the products examined.  They are either too cumbersome, too impractical, too expensive, and/or simply didn't work.

Summary:

Beyond the standard door locks that come on your trailer from Horse-Cents, you need at least four (4) after-market locks for good trailer security:

1. A hitch / coupler lock that fills the tow-ball cavity;
2. A pad-lock to secure the coupler's release latch, both when hitched to your truck and when stored;
3. A pad-lock to secure the spare tire to the mount, and
4. A draw-bar lock to secure your draw-bar / tow ball to your truck.

It is a sad commentary on the human condition that we need to be so security conscious - but hiding one's head in the sand will not prevent the criminals and crooks from stealing one's property.

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